The first thing that was rejected was the energy review. Our architect did this complex analysis using a web-based program provided by the federal government where you enter all the characteristics of the building including wall types, window types, light fixtures, etc. and it confirms compliance with the 2010 standards that are in effect for New York State. But the plan examiner rejected it because NYC is still on 2007 energy standards and the 2010 standards aren’t being phased in until later this year. They literally told us to come back in 24 days, on July 1, since they’ll accept our architect’s energy analysis on that date. So we got rejected for showing compliance with a more demanding standard that they’re going to use in less than a month. Go figure.

Second major item was the sprinkler system (again). This time the plan examiner wanted documentation that there was sufficient pressure in the water main to support the sprinklers being on the domestic water supply despite the fact that the code specifically states that sprinkler systems with 30 or fewer heads can feed off the domestic water supply. He also wanted all the pipe sizes and sprinkler heads specified, but that’s typically done when the sprinkler system is certified - it doesn’t need to be done at this point and requiring it now is just being difficult.

The biggest issue that he raised is that he’s insisting we do a pressure test on the water main to do the calculations to determine the sizes of pipes that are required for the sprinkler system. It takes 4 to 6 weeks to get DEP to do a flow test, so that means we can’t go in for a plan review until that’s done. Again, the flow test is typically done after DOB approves the overall plan - he’s just being obstructionist IMHO.

At one point the plan examiner insisted that we needed 2 hour fire rated walls around the stairwell, not 1 hour walls. Our expediter stuck to his guns and then it took the plan examiner 10 minutes of searching the code to realize we were right and he was wrong. Why do they have people doing plan exams who don’t know the code? If the code is just horribly complicated then why not have plan examiners specialize in certain building types? If we had someone who really knew the code issues for townhouses then maybe they’d know the code well enough to do their job properly.

Then the plan examiner was telling our expediter that he saw errors in the “I-Cards” for the building. I-Cards were the predecessor to Certificates of Occupancy, which came out in 1938. So in other words, he was holding us responsible for errors previous building owners made dating back to 1938 or before. I mean please… The whole point of our rehabbing the building is to bring it up to code and get a C of O. How can inaccuracies on the old I-Cards matter when the point of the exercise is to make them obsolete by getting a C of O?

Next time Dan and I will go to the plan review to prove the point that we’re not some nefarious slumlord trying to build a crappy substandard building. We’re just regular guys. Plus, with the enormous workload that DOB is under right now I just don’t understand how it’s productive for them to keep having us come back over and over again for stupid little things.

Now imagine if we were trying to purchase the place with a rehab loan and needed to get approved plans to close the loan. Obstructions like this can really hamper redevelopment of blighted buildings - for no good reason because they can tank deals. And it’s the reason why it can take FOREVER to close when the buyer needs financing to purchase. I’m sure more than a few deals have gone bad because DOB took too long and the contracts expired.

Last year I thought the comp for it was it’s sister townhouse around the corner - 883 St. Nicholas Ave which sold in July ‘09 for $1.04M. Thing was, 883 was recently renovated and in better condition, so we figured 413 would go for less than that - probably under $1M.

Aging bathroom needs renovation

413 West 154 had had a day care center in the ground floor which was an English basement, so not completely livable space. The English basement was a bit of an issue for us since Dan wouldn’t have had a cellar to use for an art studio and we didn’t really have the option of a rental apartment on the ground floor unless it was a studio apartment. Despite being it being 21 feet wide, the rooms weren’t that wide because there was a structural wall running the length of the building. The top floor was a one bedroom “mother-in-law’s apartment” - so not legally rentable, but still an independent unit with it’s own kitchen, etc.

The other negatives were that it was a 1/2 block from a large housing project, and while it’s literally “around the corner” from the subway it’s just the C train - and it’s a long walk to express trains.

What 413 West 154 had going for it was that it was incredibly solidly built and completely livable. It looked like it had been renovated in the 80s and everything seemed like it was in working order, though the renovations were looking dated and needed a lot of updating. We knew if we moved into it that we’d want to spend $200-250K on bathroom and kitchen renovations. We never bid on it - there was just too big of a discrepancy between what they were asking and what it was worth to us and the layout didn’t really meet our needs.

Here are some pictures to give you an idea what it was like…

Basement level looking out to garden (previously the day care center)

Living room with spiral staircase up to master bedroom

Back yard with basketball hoop

Back wall showing building was in great condition

So, if you’re in the market for a townhouse, realize prices are starting to go back up. You’ll need to bid higher than you would have a 6 months to a year ago. That’s good news if you’re trying to sell or if you just bought. We’re not talking a huge jump in prices, but enough to be noticeable.

As I was writing up this post I got a call that our plans were not approved (for the 2nd time) and the issues were largely due to changes in the 2008 code. (Today is definitely a day when it feels like we’re ‘beating upwind’…)

Sprinklers

Possibly the biggest change in terms of expense is that most townhouses now require a full sprinkler system. Apparently the new code conflicts itself - part of it says 1 and 2 family homes require sprinklers, another part says they can be exempt. At one point I found the FDNY’s ruling that said that if the townhouse was being restored back to it’s original 1 or 2 family use then sprinklers were not required at all. However, once a DOB plan examiner says they want sprinklers (as in our case) there’s no way FDNY is going to overrule them and say they’re not necessary. Here are the part of the code that were cited by our plan examiner:

903.2.7 Group R. An automatic sprinkler system shall be installed in Group R fire areas. An automatic sprinkler system shall be installed throughout buildings with a main use or dominant occupancy of Group R.

Exception: An automatic sprinkler system shall not be required in detached one- and two-family dwellings and multiple single-family dwellings (town houses), provided that such structures are not more than three stories above grade plane in height and have separate means of egress.

Here’s a summary of the code in graphical format…

(Source)

So we’re now stuck having to put in a sprinkler system. I’m not sure why, but our architect and his expediter were reading the code only the egress had to be sprinklered so he drew up sprinklers on every stair landing and between the stairs and the front door using “water walls” between the stairs/corridor and the kitchen and the living room. But as I was writing this I got a call saying the plan examiner wants the entire building sprinklered (which is consistent with the part of the code he cited). That could be cost prohibitive for us - so it’s potentially very bad news…

The reason why any sprinkler system is so expensive is because sprinklers have to plumbed with cast iron pipe. Copper melts in a fire. The problem is our connection to the water main may not be big enough to support the demand put on it by the sprinklers. So that means we may have to upgrade our connection to the water main or get a dedicated connection to the main for the sprinkler system. That’s major money because it requires tearing up the sidewalk and touching the water main for the street.

We need to get estimates, but the sprinkler system the DOB plan examiner wants will cost WELL over $100K. Now we have to figure out what can be cut so we can afford the sprinkler system. So we’ve hit a pretty major roadblock.

Smoke Detectors

A more minor point is that all smoke detectors in the building now have to be interconnected - so if one goes off they all go off (great fun when what you’re looking gets a bit smokey).

Egress Stairs

Another change is that the 2008 code now requires that the stairwell continue up to the roof. Typically the way townhouses were built was to have a hatch going up to the roof. Now you need a bulkhead with  a full 3′ wide staircase and a door.

27-375(i) (1)(b) - “Buildings exceeding three stories in height shall be provided with one stairway at least three feet in width enclosed in fire-retarding partitions with a fire resistive rating of one hour protected by FPSC doors leading directly to the street and to the roof bulkhead.”

That’s less of an expense than a sprinkler system, but if you’ve got original staircases the question is how to match the style of the current stairs on the staircase going up to the roof. And what happens if you’re staircases aren’t a full 3′ wide? That could be a bit costly - or you’ll have a different type of staircase going the last flight.

There is one good thing about requiring bulkheads - if you put south facing windows in the bulkhead it’s better than having a skylight. The problem with skylights is that they don’t capture much of the low winter light (when you want as much light and heat gain as possible) and they capture too much of the high summer sun - making the building hot and increasing your air conditioning bills. Bulkhead windows get the maximum amount of winter sun and heat (lowering your heating bills) and capture less sun and heat in the summer (lowering your air conditioning bills).

Energy Considerations

Another frustration that relates to the 2008 code is that the plan examiner wants a crazy amount of detail on the energy usage of the building. The code is pretty clear that there are multiple ways to prove energy efficiency. Our architect did one of those ways (using a goverment program that calculates energy efficiency), but the plan examiner said that wasn’t good enough. He wants details on every window, exterior door, and light fixture.

If Your Buying A Townhouse…

If you’re in the process of building a townhouse that needs a lot of work (or already own one) - realize the 2008 code will impact you greatly, as it’s affecting us. The townhouses you may be seeing that are renovated were typically renovated under the old, 1968, building code. You have to meet  a much more demanding standard now.

If you can find a townhouse that has plans that were approved under the old building code then you can use those plans provided the permits have been kept current. But if the permits expired make the current get them renewed before you purchase the property. But realize you’ll be able to make minor changes to those plans. Talk to an architect and an expediter to make sure you can build under those plans. If the owner can’t get the plans renewed, lower your bid price substantially to compensate yourself for having to meet 2008 code.

If you’re buying a townhouse without approved plans (the norm) make sure you overestimate your renovation costs to compensate for things like full sprinkler systems. It can get expensive to meet 2008 code.

To me that’s pretty remarkable… Same previous owner, same neighborhood, same square footage, yet they paid 41.5% more for their place than we paid for ours.

But the reason is pretty simple - width… 18 feet is the width when developers start getting interested in a townhouse. Building code requires a 3′ wide staircase and 3′ hallways. You’ll need one public hallway for the staircase and then another inside the apartment. Even if you do exposed brick, you’ll have at least 8″ of wall, so you need 9′ 8″ just for the required parts. In our building that leaves less than 4 feet for a bathroom, which isn’t enough. On a standard 18 footer that has about about 17 feet brick to brick you have over 7 feet of room for the bathroom, closets, etc. - which is plenty…

That means if you’re looking for a bargain on a Harlem townhouse shell and you just want it to be 2 or 3 family, then you should go narrow… You’ll get a better price on a 15 or 16 footer than you will on an 18+ footer, ’cause you won’t be competing with developers.

UPDATE: One thing I forgot to mention is that once a narrow townhouse is renovated it can sell for good money as is evidenced by the recent comp over on 119. So this really does seem to be a supply vs. demand issue. There’s just more demand for wider shells than there is for narrower shells. You pay a premium at 18+ feet because you’re competing with developers.

On Good Friday we headed over to the A&D building to do two things - 1) try to get inspiration and ideas for what we can and should be doing in terms of finishing details, and 2) to understand the price points. We started at Poliform since our old kitchen had been a Poliform kitchen. The Poliform showroom is now massive - takes up a whole floor - but everything was being ripped out and redone in preparation for a May relaunch of their showroom just before ICFF. Long story short Poliform blew us off and told us a few days later that they weren’t going to bother to do a proposal for us because they expected prices to fluctuate before we would be buying (a completely lame excuse, IMHO).

We stopped at a number of other kitchen places but our favorite was Eggersmann - a German company that’s only just started selling in the US. Their stuff was INCREDIBLE (take a look at their website), and the sales person who was helping us was not only nice and helpful, but she also knew her product backwards and forwards and so she was extremely informative. And kudos to them for being the first ones to get back to us with a proposal. And the proposal wasn’t just a sales sheet - there was a whole 3D mockup… These guys are GOOD!

Here’s what they came up with - realize this is just a first draft…

The ceiling height is wrong - it’s 10 1/2 feet and they don’t show the stairs and the doors will have glass panels in them, but it’s great first shot…

As they should, the renderings got us wondering about the layout of our kitchen. For starters, notice the similarity of the layout with our old kitchen…

Both have a tall vertical (the fridge) to the left, then the range in the center and the sink off to the left. As much as we loved our old kitchen, we want something new… To that end we’re thinking the sink or possibly a cooktop could go in the island to change things up.

The first rendering also made us realize that we don’t really want the closet right inside the front door. It makes the space too narrow. So we’re going to move it down where it’s opposite the stairs and then put a long bench across from the kitchen and narrow the island and remove the stools. That will give a wider walkway with a lot more shoulder room, but we’ll still have a place to sit to put on and take off  our shoes and a place guests can hang out while Dan’s making dinner.

Unfortunately, while we love Eggersmann, we may not be able to afford them. The price they came back with was double what we paid for our Poliform kitchen 5 years ago. Even if we cut back on how much they do (not do the entry closet, etc.) their price may still not fit into our budget - we’ll see… But if you’re doing a renovation and like a modernist aesthetic, we highly recommend them - their stuff is possibly the best we’ve seen.

We’re also having Siematic spec a “lower end” kitchen (by their standards). If that doesn’t come in at a price we can afford and we can’t afford Eggermann then we’ll probably give up doing a European modular system and go with a “custom kitchen”. The problem is local craftsman don’t have the same abilities as the European factories. That means we have to be careful to design the kitchen in a way they can execute properly. That’s a lot more work for us, but it is what it is…

During our search we went through the one 2 doors down - 7 West 119th Street. It was fully renovated with some high end finishes (Sub Zero fridge, but just “better than rental” cabinetry). It wound up selling for $1.0983M. It’s hard to figure out the square footage of #7. Officially it’s 2,794 sq. ft. so it officially sold for $393/sq. ft. However, the City has it’s length at 47′ when all it’s sibling neighbors are officially 38′. I don’t remember it being pushed out in the back and the permit they pulled said no enlargement was proposed. It’s on a lot with a diagonal back line - one side it’s 54′ deep, the other it’s 58′ deep. I remember the back yard basically being a small deck, but it the short side was definitely more than 7′ feet long. So I really think the square footage of #7 is smaller and more inline with it’s neighbors. On top of everything else they did a double height living room so it was probably under 2,000 of real square feet. If it were 2,000 sq. ft. then the price per square foot would have been $549/sq. ft. which is way over what the other comps support. By comparison the incredible one on Strivers’ Row went for $505/sq. ft.

11 West 119th is a SMALL townhouse that shouldn’t be made into more than a single family home (#7 was made into a 2 family with a tiny studio apartment and I think it was a mistake). It’s not not in a historic district (though it is literally adjacent to a one). It’s steps from East Harlem where values are somewhat lower. It’s across the street from (relatively nice) public housing. So I’m not seeing how the property commanded $188/sq. ft. But with both #7 and #11 selling way over what the comps support — apparently they’re smoking really good over at that end of West 119th Street! 

No matter - this is a great comp for those of us who own townhouses. Be happy! And for the new owners of #7 and #11 West 119th Street - the values will go up in the coming years and they’ll still make money when they sell.

But honestly - if you’re looking to buy a Harlem townhouse shell - get a damn good real estate broker and a subscription to Property Shark that includes comps and really get to know what things are actually selling for (as opposed to what they’re listed for). A Property Shark membership is WAY cheaper than overpaying for real estate.

There are two big things the building has going for it. First, location - it’s practically in the heart of all the redevelopment and buzz that’s happening in South Harlem. Walk across St. Nicholas Avenue and you’re in the middle of everything that’s hot and trendy in Harlem - Nectar wine bar, Moca Lounge, etc. And it’s also close to the A,B,C and D trains at 125 - so it’s just 1 stop from 59th Street.

The second thing the building has going for it are its development possibilities. You can (and probably should) invest a $1 million in this building, and when you’re done it’ll be worth more than you put into it (if you’re smart about how you spend the money). Because most of the lot is within 100 feet of St. Nicholas Ave, it has a FAR just under 6 (which means you can expand the building far bigger than you can other townhouses that have a 3.44 FAR), and it’s got a C1-4 commercial overlay, so you can have the option of a commercial tenant on the ground floor (but it has to be one that services the immediate neighborhood).

It’s currently a 4 story building. If I were buying the building I’d push the back wall back to maximize square footage and add two partial floors on top. I’d configure it with three units. Because the building is only 17 feet wide you don’t really want to make it more than 3 family. The basement would be one unit with the possibility of a commercial tenant. The parlor floor could be a two bedroom apartment, and the top two existing floors plus the two floors I’d add would be a large quadraplex. You could step back each of the additional floors and allow for outdoor terraces making the quadraplex an incredible space with tremendous outdoor space…

In the picture above you can see that there is an alley along the west side of the building. There are a number of existing windows in that wall. The rules about lot line windows apply, but it’s a great to have windows in your bathrooms and a wall you can exhaust vents out of.

As you can see the façade and the stoop need a lot of work. But as you move inside the original floors and a some original details are still intact…

(click on any image to see a bigger version of it)

I have to say going through the building was a bit unsettling. There were clothes and sleeping bags left over from when homeless used to live in the building. The staircase was a bit rickety, and there was a dead cat in the basement. But all of those things are easy to fix.

While you can buy this building and not expand it beyond it’s current 3,400 sq. ft. it’s best if you plan on making the building substantially larger. The construction will be pretty expensive given that you’ll want to add two floors and push the rear wall back, and you may need to reinforce the foundation to support the additional floors and you might want to lower the floor in the cellar - none of which comes cheap. But given the area, you can spend the money and have it come back to you.

In terms of price it’s currently at $795K. Townhouses typically sell for around $200K off their asking prices, so I’d guess it’ll sell for around $600K, maybe a bit higher. $600K would be $176/sq. ft. which is high for a shell, but the location and development possibilities explain why it’s at the high end for a shell. Even if you spent $200/sq. ft. renovating it (no expansion) you’d still be under $400/sq. ft. which is supported by the comps. If you want to expand the building I think you’ll find that cost effective as well.

I should also say something about the tax situation. The taxes are quite high - $9,664/year. Most townhouses pay about 1/3rd that amount. The current owner sorta messed up. He should have pulled a permit to convert it to 2-3 family, started construction, and gotten Department of Finance to reclassify the building and bring the taxes down. This is actually a good example of what I was talking about in the previous post - you don’t want to convert this building to 4 (+) family because the taxes will remain high and the additional rental income may not cover the higher taxes. 2 or 3 family makes a lot more sense in this case. If you can get it reclassified as 2 or 3 family, then the assessed value will drop to $10,200 (6% of the market value of $170K), which is far lower than the current transitional assessed value of $72,990. The taxes on $10,200 would be $1,745 - nearly $8K less than what’s being paid now. DOF will up the market value because you’re doing work on the building, but you’ll still pay substantially less than what’s being paid now.

It’s probably worth mentioning that we bid $575K on it back in November 2009 and it was rejected - we were told we weren’t even close. I would have gone up to $600K and possibly a bit higher if we had access to the money, but the ‘no’ was so resounding we never went back with another bid. It wouldn’t surprise me if the owner currently feels a bit firm at $795K, so it could take some negotiation to get the price you want…

Whether you get this building or another I recommend you have a real estate broker who’s an aggressive negotiator. Norman Horowitz (the listing agent) is a good guy, but I wouldn’t go to him directly since you will be wanting to negotiate a significant amount off the asking price. If you’re looking for a tough negotiator who really works for her clients, we recommend Maria McCallister of Barak Realty - she’s proven herself to us in both the sale of our apartment and the purchase of our townhouse.

Big Differences In Taxes Between 1-3 Family and 4+ Family

The first thing we noticed as we got to know Harlem townhouses was that there was a huge difference in how taxes are calculated once you hit 4 or more units. To the point where it can make no sense to have the 4th unit - it’s better to stick to a 3 unit building in many cases.

Let’s say you want to buy 1990 Madison. It’s a huge ark of a building - 20′ x 54′ x 5 stories. That’s a whopping 1080 sq. ft. per floor, and 5,400 sq. ft. in total. You probably think it would be great as a 5 family building… Let’s see if that’s right…

The current appraised market value is $673K. That’s going to go up after you do renovations on the place. Let’s say you do $100/sq. ft. in renovations and spend $540,000. Typically people don’t report the entire cost of renovation to the City since the building permits are priced based on the cost of work being done, so let’s say you report 1/3rd of that amount ($180K) to the Department of Buildings. The Department of Finance seems to be in the habit of picking up the renovation amounts and adding them to the market value, so your market value will wind up around $850K.

Next, the City takes 45% of the market value to determine the assessed value which comes out at $382,500 for buildings in tax class 2 (residential with four or more units).  However, the City has what it calls a “transitional assessed value” to ensure that if property tax values fluctuate rapidly that actual taxes only go up at a rate that people can deal with. Right now the transitional assessed value is on that building is $243,990. Since that’s lower than $382,500, you’ll pay based on the transitional assessed value rather than the actual assessed value. The owners have some tax exemptions, but we’ll assume you don’t have any since you don’t know whether you’ll get the same exemptions they get. You then apply the tax rate of 0.13241 to the (transitional) assessed value and you come out with taxes of $32,307/year.

Now, let’s see what the taxes would be if it were a 3 family… Start with the market value of $850K but instead of taking 45%, you take 6% to determine the assessed value because you’re in a different tax class - tax class 1 instead of tax class 2. That comes out to an assessed value of $51K. That’s WAY lower than the transitional assessed value of $243,990, so you’ll pay taxes on $51K instead of $244K… However, the tax rate is higher on 1 to 3 family homes - 0.17088 instead of 0.13241, but even at the higher tax rate the taxes come out to $8,715/year instead of $32,307/year! In other words, you’ll save $23,592/year having it as a 3 family instead of a 4 or 5 family.

So, you’ll be losing $2K/month just in taxes and that will get worse as time goes on and the 5 unit scenario loses the benefit of the transitional assessed value and starts paying market rate taxes like the 3 family scenario was paying all along. Imagine taking the top 3 floors and making them into a triplex. If a single floor went for maybe $2,000/mo, the triplex could easily go for $4,000/mo and you’d be ahead because the taxes situation would be on your side as time went on.

In 5+ family buildings it’s often hit or miss in terms of which will do better - a 3 family or a 5 family. But in most cases a 4 story building configured as 3 family will be more profitable for the landlord than the same building configured as 4 family. In other words, you pay more in taxes than you get in additional rent with the 4th unit. However, because many buildings have low transitional assessed values, developers continue to configure them as 4 family. But when the transitional assessed value goes up and gets near the actual assessed value it’s smarter to reconfigure them as 3 family buildings.

I should mention that there are egress issues if you put in duplex or triplex units. The main staircase is usually the egress stairs so all units share it so they have access to the roof in the event of a fire. You can’t block that staircase and give it to the top unit and a second staircase would take up valuable space. The object is to give every unit two means of egress. The garden unit has front door and garden. The top unit has front door and roof. The problem are any units in the middle, so the solution is to put a staircase down from the parlor floor into the garden. Which means all floors above parlor need to be one unit. If you have a 4 story townhouse, that means a duplex. If you have a 5 story townhouse that means you’ll have a triplex. For developers that want to add a 6th floor to maximize their F.A.R. (maximum buildable space) there may be a problem since there may not be a big enough rental market for quadraplexes in Harlem, but by the point you get to 6 units the additional rent may very well easily cover the additional tax.

Significant Differences In Fire Code Between 1-2 Family and 3+ Family

We didn’t realize until recently how big of a difference there was between 2 family and 3 family. One of the big difference is the sprinkler system - generally, 3+ family buildings need them, 1-2 family buildings don’t. It may not sound like much, but among other things sprinkler systems have to be piped with cast iron piping (copper piping will melt in a fire) - they don’t come cheap. That means a sprinkler system will add at least $50K to your budget if you need one - possibly as much as $100K if you need to sprinkler the entire building. That’s a big chunk of change and will be a big part of any renovation budget.

Correction: We’ve found, by submitting plans and having them rejected, that most townhouses require full sprinkler systems - even 1 and 2 family homes.

The bigger issue is that 3+ family buildings are “Group R-2″ where 1 and 2 family units are “Group R-3″ (which are the same as the older “J-2″ and “J-3″ classifications). Things are just more lenient all around if you’re R-3 which means it’s less expensive to build a 2 family than it is to build a 3 family (not even taking into consideration the extra kitchen and bathrooms).

Of course, if you’re a landlord you may eventually recoup the cost of the sprinkler system with the extra rent from the 3rd unit. Plus your building may come with a usable sprinkler system. However, you just have to realize that you’ll be judged by a more demanding standard when you file for building permits and when you revise your C of O.

Smaller Differences In Building Code Between 1 and 2 Family

So far it seems the differences between 1 and 2 family aren’t all that big. In two family you need things like fire protection between the units, but that can be achieved by using two layers of drywall instead of one which is a pretty minor detail.

In my mind 2 family is a bit of a sweet spot - you get some extra income but don’t get slammed with major expenses upfront for construction or down the road in taxes…

The Expensive Options

There are a lot of options. One of the more popular ones is forced air. With a forced air system you get heating and central air conditioning pumped through duct work. It seems forced air systems start at about $60K and can get much more expensive as you add things like zoning, air exchange handlers, humidifiers, air filters, etc. Plus they tend to blow dust around the house and NYC air is dirty enough as it is…

Another option is to have smaller zoned forced air systems throughout the house, typically in a dedicated closet. This basically takes the forced air idea and puts several smaller units throughout the house that handle only a floor or two. We went into some houses that had them and they’re quite noisy, and also pretty expensive.

One person suggested PTAC units which are hotel style thru-wall, combined heating and cooling units. But those generally use electricity for heating which is absurdly expensive in NYC or they require plumbing gas lines into every room (also expensive). And they’re noisy and not as energy efficient as other solutions.

Then there are decentralized heating and cooling units which are supplied with heated or cooled water and blow water over fins attached to the pipes to heat and cool the room. But their cost is pretty high.

The Consensus Solution For People On A Tight Budget

However, what everyone seems to agree is pretty effective and inexpensive (and what we’re going with) is having a boiler that powers radiant heating and combining that with a “mini split system” for cooling.

Radiant Heating

On the heating side, it turns out that hot water is more efficient than old style steam - but the concept is pretty much the same… You pump something hot through a radiator and it warms up the room - just as they’ve been doing in New York for over a hundred years. These days the plumbing is done with high quality plastic (”PEX”) tubing and it’s quite popular to make the floor the radiator and have “radiant floor” heating, but that costs substantially more than simple radiators. If we had the budget, we would do radiant floor heating since it’s the most pleasant form of heating to live with. But our budget is tight, so we’ll stick to normal rads.

Mini Split System For Cooling

On the cooling side we’ll have 2 or 3 condenser units on the roof that will pump refrigerant to small units in each room. That means every room is a zone which is great for keeping cooling costs down since we’ll only be cooling a few rooms in the house at any given time. Also, much of the noise is relegated to condensers on the roof and the units in the room are pretty quiet. The units can also act as heat pumps. However, since we’ll be positioning them near the ceiling they probably won’t be as effective at heating as the hot water rads will be. Still, if we want to take the chill out of a room we can do it without turning on the whole boiler.

The mini spit systems have three types of units for in the room. The standard is a wall or ceiling mounted unit that’s just under 3 feet long. It’s not the most attractive thing, but it can be very efficient. The the other highly efficient option is a “ceiling cassette” however, they don’t fit between 16″ joists, so you have to plan ahead for them. In our case they’re 10″ deep and our joists are only 8″, so we’re not going to use them since we’d have to create some sort of bump down in the ceiling. The last option is a ducted version which can be put in a nearby closet and then you run a short duct to one or two rooms. However, you lose some efficiency in the duct work. The most efficient mini split systems combine one condenser with one room unit and they can get up around 25 SEER, which is excellent. You can also have one condenser power multiple room units - up to 4 at a time. Though the more room units you power the lower the efficiency and SEER ratings. There are condensers that power two room units that get as high as 18 SEER, but typical SEER values are more like 15 or 16 for the multi-room systems.

A/C Sleeves In The Rental

Of course there are air conditioning solutions that are less expensive than mini split systems… In the rental unit we’ll go even simpler and put air conditioning sleeves in the sidewall. Unlike most townhouses we do have a sidewall that’s all ours (not a “party wall”). The A/C sleeves are less expensive than a mini split system and more than adequate for a rental.

Our place is a 5 story townhouse that’s a narrow(ish) 15′ in width. It’s attached to sibling townhouse to the east (to the left as you look at the front of the building), but there’s an alleyway to the west between it and the apartment building next to it. The windows look off center because one sidewall is shared (and hence our portion of that wall is narrower which throws off the symmetry).

We’re still working on the window situation. What’s drawn is a casement window over a fixed pane transom. We need to do some measurements this weekend, but it may turn out that only double hung windows fit the current window openings since they’re wider than 3 feet. If we’re going to do casements in the front we have to make sure they’re in before the block is landmarked - apparently there are people who want to do it and there’s even a meeting about it tonight. Landmarking will help the value, but restrict what we can do in terms of development including what windows we can put on the front façade. Just for reference, the window next to the front door is huge - 4 1/2′ wide by 7 1/2′ tall! The window next to the door in the back (parlor floor) is 3 1/2′ wide by 8′ tall. We’ll may have to narrow the back windows to 3′ since that’s the maximum width for casement windows before you get into expensive custom “architectural” windows. We could also do double hung windows back there, but I’d really rather have casements.

The back side is south facing, so tons of light. The front faces north.

One thing that we loved as we were looking at townhouses was the quality of the light as you went up in the building and got light from the skylight. We’re not actually doing a skylight, instead we’re doing a bulkhead with south facing windows - just as you see in a lot of European factories. This should improve the quality of the light since it will reduce the light at noon in the summer when the sun is high in the sky, and increase the light in the winter when the sun is lower on the horizon. We’re devoting an bigger area than normal to the stairs and wrapping them around a “light well” which will bring the wonderful light down deeper into the building.

As you can see in the section view the house is basically a 6 bedroom owner’s unit over a 1 bedroom rental unit that has “accessory space” in the cellar. It may seem odd to have a 6 bedroom place in Manhattan, but if you think about a family with three kids - that’s three bedrooms for the kids + a master bedroom for the parents + a home office + a playroom/lounge for the kids. Even at 2 kids it makes sense - then they’d have a spare bedroom for guests.

Most townhouses are 4 floor buildings. We’re lucky to have a 5th floor. Dan’s a sculptor who’s never had enough space to do his work. One of our objectives in getting a townhouse was to give him space to do his art in a place where he could make as much noise as he wanted to (apartment buildings have lots of rules about noise). Initially he thought he’d take the cellar for art, but when this building had a 5th floor we decided to give it all to him for his art. In the back he’ll have a “dirty studio” which can get as messy as he wants. In the front will be his “clean studio”, and gallery space (if he can get people to walk up all those flights to look at the art). The dirty studio faces south so it will have tons of light and the gallery will get flooded with light from the bulkhead windows. However, FDNY may make us put a wall up between the stairs and the studio since it’s a bit of a fire hazard to have an open room at the top of a stairwell since fire spreads vertically. If that happens we’ll put a big window in the wall. In the middle will be a “utility room” that can easily be converted to another bathroom. It will have a slop sink, a small kitchenette, and some storage. The ceiling height on this floor will go gradually up and taper with the slope of the roof. In the back it will probably be about 8′, and in the front more like 9′.

One floor down will be my office. The fact that I’ve been self-employed for 9 years now (and for 3 years in the early 90s) is another reason why we needed more space. I need a proper office and that’s what will be in the front of the 3rd floor. Any street noise there might be won’t bother the office, unlike the guest bedroom which we’ve put in the back of the building. In the middle is a bathroom with an attached laundry room with a stacked washer/dryer. There will be exposed brick along the wall with the hallway. The other three walls will be insulated and sheetrocked since they’re exposed exterior walls. The ceilings are a nice 9′ high on this floor.

The next floor down is the floor just over the parlor and is traditionally called the “master/mistress floor” because the husband would have a bedroom in the front, and the wife a bedroom in rear and in the middle would be connecting dressing rooms. That let each spouse have a separate bedroom, but let them discretely go between the rooms as they desired.

We’ll have our master bedroom in the rear and a 2nd guest bedroom / den in the front. Since there wasn’t room for a second bathroom on the floor we’re putting in a pocket door so we can share our master bathroom if we have a lot of guests. The bathroom is smaller than some might want, but it’s plenty big for us. We opted to have a bigger master bedroom and a smaller master bath. I should mention that each of the bedrooms has about 10′ of closets - which we’ll really enjoy. There is a wood burning fireplace shown on the plans. It doesn’t use the existing chimney (which is on the opposite wall). It was just easier to put in a new fireplace and a new chimney. However, chances are the fireplaces will get cut due to a tight budget. But they’re something that can be done almost as easily at a later date.  The ceilings are a whopping 10′ on this floor.

The parlor floor is always the most grand floor in a townhouse. Ours has 10 1/2′ ceilings, though we’re considering raising the floor 6″ (which would lower the ceiling height) to give more ceiling height in the apartment on the floor below. Historically the kitchens were a floor below and they had servants that would bring the food up. There would have been a sitting room in the front, a dining room in the middle and a living room in the rear. In most modern layouts the living room is in the front, the kitchen in the rear and the dining room in the middle. We’re changing that around and putting the kitchen in the front because we want the living room in the rear where it’s quieter, more private, and more connected to the living space in the back yard. Ultimately we’re going for an open concept loft-like space on this floor. When you come in the front door we want an unobstructed view to the back.

One of the objectives in buying a townhouse was to have a back yard, so there are stairs going down so we have use of the back yard. We could have put in another rental unit on the parlor floor pretty easily and made it into a 3 family, but then the only outside space we would have had would have been the roof deck. The back yard isn’t huge - just 15′ x 26′ (390 sq. ft.) but it’ll still be really nice to have it.

It was tricky fitting a bathroom on this floor. The thing is you don’t want people using a bathroom next to where you’re making food, and you don’t want to think about someone else using the bathroom when you’re in the living room, and you definitely don’t want it to be an issue when you’re eating. The best solution was to tuck it under the stairs and put a privacy screen between it and what will be the dining area. We’ll just have the rule that if you need to use the bathroom during dinner you need to go and use one of the bathrooms on the upper floors.

The rental unit will help carry the cost of the (rather large) mortgage we have to get on the place. So it’s important that we have a nice rental apartment so it will rent quickly and for a good price. We’re including 1/2 of the cellar in the rental as a “accessory space” (see floor plan below). You’re not legally allowed to have a bedroom that’s fully below grade, but renters can use it as a media room, artist studio or home office. There will be about 725 sq. ft. on the main ground floor and another 225 or so in the cellar - so it will be over 1,050 sq. ft. The tenant will have access to the back yard, but we want the back yard to primarily be ours. So how much they’re allowed to use it will depend on how we get along with the tenant and how much we find ourselves using it. Ceiling height will be at least 8′. We’re thinking about raising the floor above and taking 6″ from the parlor level and lowering the floor in the rental 6″ in the living/kitchen area. Those two things would give 9′ ceilings in much of the rental and over 8′ ceilings elsewhere.

The one odd part about the building is that there are two entrances under the stoop. There’s a 3′ wide staircase down into the cellar, and a 2′ entrance to the ground floor. The 2′ entrance is not up to code and we doubt we can get it grandfathered, so we’re thinking we’ll need to make what was once the window into the legal door. The tenant can use either, but we’ll put french doors on the legal door so it can read visually as either a door or a window.

We have a “C2-4″ commercial overlay on the property which means we can use the ground floor (and even the parlor floor) for commercial purposes. In regular economic times a commercial tenant would be better since they’d probably pay as much or more in rent and only be there during the day. We’ve done the layout so if you take out the kitchen it’s a viable office space or small store, hair salon, etc. However, we won’t be trying to get a commercial use specified in the C of O. We’re amending plans for 2 family building the prior owner got approved. If we went the commercial route it would cost us a lot more money. Down the road we can think about changing that - but not now.

Here you see how the tenant gets half of the cellar. There’s a mechanical room in the center and storage for us in the front. The townhouse is unique in having a “vault” under the “front yard”. Usually the utilities are brought in under the stoop, but since there are stairs under the stoop they created a little stone walled room with a rustic arched brick ceiling (that’s having problems). It’ll make a wonderful little wine cellar or dungeon - depending on your proclivities

So there you have it - top to bottom… Hopefully in a year we’ll be living in it!

#1 - Realize Harlem Townhouses Are A Speculative Purchase

Harlem townhouses were built by speculators in the late 1800s and early 1900s in conjunction with the subways being extended north into Harlem. But then there was a real estate crash starting in 1904 and that speculation came to an end and rents dropped. Harlem townhouses started as speculative investments and 100 years later the cycle of speculation and failure is still going on as is evidenced by the fact that you can buy one for 1/3rd of it’s price 2-3 years ago.

You need to go into it knowing it’s a speculative purchase. While I firmly believe Harlem townhouses will fair far better in the next major downturn (10-20 years from now) there is no guarantee. Harlem is not Brownstone Brooklyn. It’s not “there” yet. It’s only starting to get things that people look for in “good” neighborhoods like great supermarkets and good schools.

There are certain implications to a speculative purchase. Namely you need to watch for the next real estate crash and either get out before it, or be prepared to weather it. If you go into it knowing that time will come, you won’t be so disappointed when it happens.

#2 - Be Very Careful Buying SROs

SROs are “single room occupancy” buildings where people have a room without a proper kitchen. I’ve been reading Sherlock Holmes lately and he lived in an SRO. At one time it was fashionable for single men to live in them - the landlord would serve them meals, etc. Then they just became the least expensive form of housing and the City’s poor gravitated to them. Today SRO tenants often earn $10,000 to $15,000 per year and typically pay 50% of their income to rent these cheapest of cheap rooms. The issue is that when you kick out an SRO tenant they often can’t find other housing and they become homeless.

As a result the City put a moratorium on converting SROs back in 1985 because there was a wave of landlords kicking out their poor tenants, converting to proper apartments and making a bunch of money. A year later they put in place a process whereby you can convert an SRO, but you have to prove that the tenants haven’t been harassed at any point in the past 3 years. To get the signatures required you often have to pay the tenants $10,000 or more, and then the City will take 6-9 months investigating your claim - making sure you didn’t omit anyone who lived in the building, etc. If they approve you, then you get a “certificate of no harassment” which enables you to get a building permit to do the conversion.

The bottom line is that you need to know whether the building you’re considering is an SRO, and if it is you should see a certificate of no harassment before going into contract. Even top brokers lie and tell half truths when they’re selling SROs that don’t have certificates of no harassment. So you need to know how to determine SRO status yourself. There are two primary sources - NYC Department of Buildings (DOB), and NYC Department of Housing Preservation and Development (HPD). HPD has a web site that tells you details about buildings. If the number of “B Units” is greater than zero, then it’s an SRO. Keep track of the Block and Lot numbers that HPD has and then head over to DOB’s BisWeb site. There you enter the block and lot numbers and you can see the information they have on the building. One of the pieces of information is whether the building is SRO restricted. Remember that if any City agency thinks the building is SRO restricted, then it’s SRO restricted, though DOB and HPD are the primary sources of information for SRO restrictions.

DO NOT BUY an SRO without a certificate of no harassment unless you really know what you’re doing.

There are a few cases where buying an SRO without a certificate of no harassment is OK…

First, is if you want to be an SRO landlord. It’s not easy, but it can be profitable. Fully occupied SROs go for $600-$800K. If you have a typical 4 story building with two units per floor, each giving you $650, then you’ve got a rent roll of $5,200. If you can get a mortgage that should more than cover the mortgage payments and expenses. HOWEVER, do watch the taxes - they can be really high on SROs and wipe out any profits. I saw one in East Harlem that paid $25K/year in taxes.

Second, it’s OK to buy an empty SRO if you’re OK with your renovations not being done for 5 years (3 years of waiting + 1 year of review + 1 year of construction). If you can get the current owner to provide a sworn statement that it’s been vacant that can reduce that time frame. You can live in it during that time but you’re only allowed to do “repairs and maintenance”. If you do anything to convert the building you can get fined for it and that violation can make it impossible for you to EVER convert the building. It can even make it difficult or impossible for the next owner to convert the building. In that case you may need to bring the building up to current code as an SRO first, clear the violation, and then reapply for the certificate. That means you pay for renovations twice.

#3 - Look For Realistic Sellers

There are a lot of townhouses on the market right now that are completely unrealistic about their price. Even the ones that have realistic owners typically price their places $200,000 higher than they know they’ll sell for. In our case it was listed for $795K and we purchased it for $530K. Pretty much the only ones that are realistic are estate sales. We got ours from TPE Townhouses Harlem (a part of Tahl Propp Equities). They bought 11 townhouses and didn’t develop them quickly enough and then needed to liquidate them when the market went south. So there are people other than estates who are realistic…

The only way to know if the seller is realistic is to put in a bid. We saw 30 places and put in bids on 7. In one case it was a realistic seller, but we pulled the bid after having second thoughts. In another case it was a short sale and they wanted all cash. The place on Astor Row was looking for people who were bidding based on their gut, not the numbers. In another case there was already an accepted bid and they went with that offer (we later learned that our offer was about $10K less). Given all the bids you’ll be putting in and how much you need the sellers to come down, it’s critical that you have a real estate broker who’s great at bidding aggressively. They need to pull out every trick in the book to get you the price you should pay. If you need a broker with excellent bidding skills, we’d highly recommend Maria McCallister of Barak Realty.

One assumption I made during our search was that eager sellers would list their properties with brokers who would market them aggressively. Right at the end I realized that wasn’t true. Back when the market was hot there were brokers who would get listings and then not market them because they didn’t want to share the commission. (Not every broker in NYC is part of REBNY, which requires co-broking.) Back when Harlem townhouses were so hot you couldn’t help but sell them, it wasn’t a bad strategy. But I had a friend who listed his place in 2008, before the crash, with one of those brokers. She got him into contract for $1.4M, but it fell through. Then the crash happened. A lot of time passed and she got him into contract again, but that one fell through as well. He finally sold the place earlier this year for $775K. By the end he was sorta desperate to sell and was bleeding financially. So those brokers do have motivated sellers and for one reason or another they manage to keep the listing. That particular broker was flat out lying to my friend. She told him she was advertising in the NY Times (she wasn’t). She said she listed his place in the REBNY systems, but our broker confirmed she wasn’t.

That means there is value scouring the web for small real estate companies that have some townhouse listings. Typically they don’t tell you the address or the price and are pretty obscure about other details as well. When you see the properties you need to do things differently. Start by seeing the place on your own and do not mention that you have a broker. Then bring your broker in later after you’ve started initial negotiations. When we wanted to see my friend’s place his broker pulled every trick in the book trying to not get us in before the contract with her buyer was signed. It was only when she realized I was standing there texting everything she did to my friend that she sorta stopped playing tricks.

#4 - The Block & Immediate Neighborhood Can Make A Huge Difference

Real estate values in Harlem vary widely from block to block. We didn’t understand why one townhouse down on 112th was asking so much until very late in the process when we realized how nice it was over in South Harlem (SoHa). Anything close to that goes for a premium. Up in Hamilton Heights you cross Amsterdam Ave and you can go from one of the best blocks anywhere in Harlem to blocks that are pretty sketchy. If you don’t already know Harlem, it can take some time to be able to discern the good areas from the bad.

Before you go into contract on a place go there at night when it’s nice weather and people are out on the street. It’s best to do it a few times to really get a feel for the place. Ask yourself whether you feel safe. If there’s loud music ask yourself how you’ll feel about that when you’re having guests over for a barbecue. Look for possible drug dealing. New York doesn’t really have a gang problem, but look for “rough” groups of kids who might hassle you. But don’t be too critical on that last point. We were going by one property and saw a group of kids outside a building. About 5 minutes as more and more of them arrived and they subsequently left we realized it was Friday night and they were just meeting up to go out clubbing. If they’re standing around laughing an joking chances are they won’t be a problem.

#5 - Get A Property Shark Membership With Comps

One of the best things you can do is get a membership to PropertyShark.com. You can get an incredible amount of information about each of the buildings. You can see tax information, ownership history, pictures, building permits, violations, lis pendens (pre-forclosures), etc.

One of the great things they have is comps search. Not sure what something is worth? Do a 1/4 mile radius search around the building for the past 6 months and you can see what comparable properties are actually selling for (not just their list prices). One trick is to search for all building types but limit the search by square footage. 6,000 or 6,500 square feet max should find the townhouses you’re looking for.

#6 - Realize It’s Usually All About $$/sq. ft.

It’s uncanny how townhouse sales are consistent in terms of price per square foot. HOWEVER, it’s not as easy as you think to calculate the cost per square foot because the DOB has used two different methods to calculate square footage over the years.

First a little terminology… A townhouse “basement” is the floor that’s partly below street level. It’s the “garden apartment” in many cases. Below that level is the “cellar”. Floors that are completely below grade are not included in the square footage of the building (and cannot be used for sleeping). The confusion has come with the basement level which is partly below grade.

When the buildings were first built the basement was used for the kitchen and a bedroom for the cook/maid. Since it wasn’t where the family lived it wasn’t included in the square footage of the building. But we use townhouses differently now and the basement is considered living space, so it is now included. Problem is, the  DOB never went back and recalculated the square footages of buildings calculated the old way. That throws off the calculations of cost per square foot.

The important thing is to be consistent and compare apples to apples. How the square footage is calculated can make a big difference. Let’s say a building has 1,000 sq. ft. per floor and 4 stories including the basement. That means it’s either 3,000  or 4,000 sq. ft. Now, if it sold for $1M then the cost per square foot was either $333 or $250 - a HUGE difference. So you have to be consistent one way or the other. On Property Shark you can see the building’s dimensions and whether it has an extension on the back. If there isn’t an extension then it’s easy to calculate. However sometimes the extension is included in the length of the building and sometimes it isn’t. So there are times when you just can’t tell. If you see a C of O in the past 10 years or so, then you can trust the official square footage of the building and know that it includes the basement.

One other thing to remember is that, unlike apartments, townhouse square footage includes the exterior walls. A considerable amount of the square footage can be walls. For example our place has an exterior dimension of 15′ x 58′ or 870 sq. ft. per floor. The brick walls are about 1′ thick. We share one wall with the townhouse next to us, so brick to brick our square footage is 13.5′ x 56′ or 756 sq. ft. If we did 4 inch studs on all exterior walls that would reduce things further to 12.8′ x 55.3′ or 708 sq. ft. That’s a huge difference from 870 sq. ft - nearly 20% of our square footage is exterior walls.

As you get to know the market you’ll understand the value of buildings and a quick calculation can give you an approximate price. “Why are you asking $400/sq. ft. for a building in poor condition?” can be a fun thing to ask the listing broker…

And one side note - since it is all about price per square foot - if you’re tempted to put in double height ceilings when you do your renovations remember that you’ll be reducing your square footage and devaluing your property.

#7 - Know How Much Renovation Costs

Most of the townhouses in Harlem have 100 year old plumbing and nearly as old electrical systems. Very few of them are properly insulated. Most have rotten floor joists under the bathrooms. That means they all need major work. Never assume otherwise. And replacing things like plumbing, electrical and insulation in an old building requires skilled workers who are able to do their work surgically. Assume plumbing and electric will cost you $150K. If you buy a total shell like ours you’ll be spending at least $150K, probably $200K, just on new structural components. Windows can run you $1K/window for good windows (Harlem townhouses have some HUGE windows - we have one that’s 4 1/2′ x 7 1/2′ and others that are 3 1/2′ x 9′ - the place on Astor Row has a window that’s 5′ x 7′ and on a landmarked exterior where you’re required to use relatively expensive windows).

Then there’s the new building code… In 2008 the City implemented a new building code. The prior building code was from 1968. They didn’t change that much but what they did change can be expensive. For starters more buildings need sprinkler systems - that will run you at least $50K since sprinkler systems have to be done with cast iron pipes that won’t melt in a fire. You’ll also need at least one “handicap adaptable” bathroom per unit. If you’re thinking about an elevator, the minimum size just got a lot bigger. If you’re trying to change your C of O (e.g. converting an SRO) you have to bring it up to code - so all of that may be necessary…

In general, townhouses that look like they’re in pretty good shape will probably need at least $250K in renovation just for new electrical, plumbing, bathrooms and kitchens (though you may be able to defer that cost for a few years). For bigger projects you need to budget $150-200/sq. ft. for a pretty basic job. High end finishes will run you even more. That means a townhouse in poor condition with 4,000 sq. ft. can easily have a renovation that costs $800K. You can do it for less, but you really have to work hard to find a reputable contractor who can do things inexpensively and then you have to scrutinize every line item on the budget and spend countless hours learning about the options for every major system in the building.

And don’t forget all the little costs - the architect will want about 10% of the construction cost. Then you’ll need to budget money to carry the renovation loan during construction. Just those two can easily be $100,000 or more.

Before you bid on a place, conservatively estimate the future value after renovations and then deduct over-estimated renovation costs. The purchase price + renovations should be less than the future value. If it’s not, lower your bid.

Good luck!

Well, if you bought at those prices I think you bought at the bottom of the market. Things are much better now. The number of sales over $1M has doubled to 10 for the past 6 months and at least one of the properties is back over $500/sq. ft.

And here they are…

• 262 W 139 St (Strivers’ Row) - $1.85M, 3,660 sq. ft., $505/sq. ft., two family with an owner’s triplex over a ground floor rental - This place is ABSOLUTELY IMMACULATE. It was an over the top renovation planned back when you couldn’t help but make money flipping townhouses in Harlem. Things didn’t go very well for the developer/seller, but the new owner has a stunning place to live (with a garage!)
• 14 W 120 St (Mt. Morris) - $1.385M, $3,37 sq. ft., $456/sq. ft. - 18′ 4 story brick townhouse literally across the street from Marcus Garvey Park. SRO restricted. HPD says it has one class A apartment and 9 class B rooms. For some reason DOB has it classified as 4 family, but is aware it’s SRO restricted.
• 116 W 120 St - $1.485M, 3,636 sq. ft., $408/sq. ft. - 20′ 4 story painted limestone townhouse. Surprisingly this is an SRO restricted old law tenement. HPD says there is one class A apartment and 6 class be “rooms”. DOB still classifies it as an old law tenement, but doesn’t realize it’s SRO restricted.
• 7 W 119 St (just outside the Mt. Morris Historic District) - $1.098M, 2,794 sq. ft., $393/sq. ft. - This was a shell and was recently gut renovated with an uneven mix of high end and low end finishes. We went through it. The building is one of the smallest townhouses you’ll see - 14′ x 47′. The rooms in it are TINY and the “back yard” is just a small deck. Our couch wouldn’t come close to fitting in the living room. It’s a technically a 2 family since there’s a VERY small studio apartment in the front half of the ground floor. I have no clue how they’ll rent such a small space. It should have been made into a single family. In my opinion the buyer over paid, but that’s a good sign as far as the market goes.
• 106 W 118 St - $1.275M, 3,400 sq. ft., $375/sq. ft. - 17′ x 49′ 4 story brownstone. It’s a legal 3 family, that was converted about 10 years ago.
• 15 W 122 St (Mt. Morris) - $1.375, 4,180 sq. ft., $328/sq. ft. - 18′ x 53′ 4 story brownstone. This is technically an SRO. HPD shows it having one class A apartment and 8 class B rooms. However, DOB shows it has being an SRO-restricted 2 family.
• 590 W 152 St - $1.2M, 3,744 sq. ft., $320/sq. ft. - 16′ x 52′ 4 story limestone townhouse with a C1 commercial overlay on it’s zoning. Like the last one, HPD shows it having one class A apartment and 8 class B rooms. However, DOB shows it has being an SRO-restricted 2 family.
• 76 Edgecombe Ave - $1.436M, 4,611 sq. ft., $311/sq. ft. - This is a lovely 19′ brick townhouse on a corner lot. There would be incredible light in the building since the long wall faces south (too much for my tastes, but I know others like southern exposures). It’s a completely legal 4 family with no SRO restrictions.
• 226 Lenox Ave (Mt. Morris) - $1.25M, 4,932 sq. ft., $253/sq. ft. - A very grand 20′ brick townhouse that was a former funeral parlor. Curiously this is technically a rooming house with no apparent SRO restrictions - somehow with the funeral parlor in there they avoided SRO status. In addition to the funeral parlor there are 2 class A apartments.
• 146 W 136 St - $1.1M, 4,590 sq. ft., $239/sq. ft. - 17′ x 56′ 4 story townhouse. It shows as 3 family, but DOB is still showing it as SRO-restricted (probably an error). The new C of O was just issued a year ago, so this is newly renovated. This was an incredible deal. The weird part is I can’t find any record of it having been for sale, so there has to be more to this than you can see at first glance.

So there you have it - the top sales for the past 6 months for Harlem townhouses. Considering that just about every week a townhouse will sell in Brooklyn for over $2M, that’s sorta a sad lot by comparison, but at least things are better than they were a few months ago.

Where things are selling…

It’s also interesting to note that none of the sales were in Hamilton Heights / Sugar Hill. 6 of the 10 were south of 125th in and around the Mt. Morris Historic District. Given that our place is in the same area the good news is that we’ll have no problem with the future value appraisal for our rehab loan. It would seem our place will be worth about $400/sq. ft. when it’s completed.

Prices on shells will go up too…

That brings up another point… The sum total of all of these numbers is that when the top end of the market goes up, everyone goes up.  Let’s take our case. When we were bidding I was thinking our place would be worth maybe $325-350/sq. ft. when it was done. So if we put $150-200/sq. ft. into it I had to subtract that from the finished value for things to make sense. We bought at $122/sq. ft. so we’d be safe no matter how you looked at it (provided the market didn’t continue to go down). Now that the top number is $400/sq. ft. things are significantly better.

I still think the biggest risk are the ones in the middle that need more work than you might think. It’s still easy to over pay for those properties. The best bets are shells and ones that are recently renovated.

Buy now! Buy low!

Unless there’s more economic turbulence, I’m firmly convinced now is the time to buy a Harlem townhouse. The trick is finding one in a decent area, without SRO issues, where they’ll sell low.

Here’s one picture looking back to front in the cellar…

And we climbed up a ladder, through some rickety floor joists and into the back yard for the first time. It was pretty much what we could see from 122nd Street though we saw the bottom floor for the first time. I can’t believe some moron cut a huge hole in the brick wall to put an air conditioner in. There isn’t even a steel lintel to hold up the weight of the brick above. Needless to say that’s gotta be patched. And there’s about 1 foot of construction debris all over the back yard which will need to be removed. Unfortunately masonry debris tends to be basic and plants like acidic soil, so once that’s out and cleaned up we’ll need to bring in a lot of fresh topsoil and wood chips to get the soil back to being acidic. There was very nice light in the back yard - quite sunny…

The yard felt a little narrower than I was hoping for, but I’m still going to be very happy to have a back yard. Just need a good privacy fence… I haven’t been able to really garden in over 20 years… Should be fun!

One thing that doesn’t look so glamorous now but will be glamorous in the future is the size of the windows. Just on the ground floor (in the future basement rental unit) that window is nearly 7 feet tall. One floor up, on the parlor floor (in our future living room) those are 8 foot windows (One will become a door). And one more level up on the master/mistress level, in what will be our master bedroom, there are 7 1/2 foot high windows. That’s the south wall, so we’re going to have a crazy amount of light… Possibly too much light.

When we were looking at it it was priced at $679K. Last month it finally sold for $425K. When we were bidding on it we went as high as $430K and they came down to $450K but then we withdrew our bid completely after spending an evening walking around the street. Even though it was just across Amsterdam Avenue from one of the best blocks in Harlem it was a remarkably rough block. The time we walked the block at night while we were bidding, it was summer, the windows were open and the salsa and merengue music was blaring from the windows. We realized that while the house itself had potential, the block didn’t have that much potential. It was never going to be a “good” block - at least not in the next 15 or 20 years. That would always limit the price of this townhouse, so we stopped budding on it. A few months later we second guessed our decision not to proceed on it so we walked the block again. This time as Dan was walking down one side of the street and I was walking down the other side, two “low income” women were yelling at each other and just about got into a fist fight as Dan passed them. He didn’t feel safe and that was absolutely the end of our thinking about 505 W 144.

On the plus side, the apartment building on the other side of the street and down a bit is where George Gershwin lived for a number of years, and there are 3 or 4 large apartment buildings on the block that have been designated part of an economic development zone and are getting 10-20 years of no real estate taxes in exchange for being redeveloped. One rooming house on the block has been gutted and turned into a condo and one building has been turned over to it’s tenants and is now a co-op. So the block is improving, but it’s still far from what we were looking for.

Here are the details…

Sale Price: $425,000
Sale Date: 5 February 2010
Square Feet: 3,468
Price Per Sq Ft: $122
Dimensions: 16.5 x 52 (no extensions)
DOB Classification: 2 family
HPD Classification: 1 class A apartment + 9 class B rooms
SRO Restricted: YES with certificate of no harassment
DOF Market Value: $1.13M
Annual taxes (2010): $3,039

It’s interesting that we paid the identical price per square foot for our place that the buyer paid for 505 W 144th - $122/sq. ft. but we feel like we made the right choice buying our place over this one.

The question then is if someone purchased this building what’s the best usage? Given the block I’d say it should be a 3 family rental with unremarkable finishes. You’d want three family instead of 4 to keep the taxes low. The ground floor would be a floor through 1 bedroom garden apartment. The parlor floor would be a large studio apartment. On the parlor floor the staircase is a switchback in the center of the building. That limits the layout options, hence a studio apartment on that floor. However, there are some interesting original details that could be preserved. Then the top two floors would be a nice, large 2(+) bedroom unit. There are original details on the master/mistress level, but not much of any on the top floor.

Given the block, I don’t see an owner living in this townhouse. IMHO, it’s value is purely as a rather average rental property.

Rough numbers… I’d conservatively say $1500 for the garden rental, $1,000 for the parlor studio and $2,000 for the top two floors. So $4,500/mo in income or $54K/yr. Assuming $1K/mo goes to running the building ($taxes, utilities, etc.), you could support a mortgage of about $600K off the rental income. At 80% financing that means the max value after renovations is about $750K and they have about $325K for renovations.

Renovations are a bit challenging because the house absolutely reeks of piss and shit. A “caretaker” had lived there for a number of years and during that time he didn’t walk his dog very much and the dog just did it’s business in the house. That means all the wood floors have to be torn out, the floor in the basement chopped up, removed and repoured, and Urine Off used liberally throughout the house. There’s also a fair amount of mold on the top floor - so all the “new” sheetrock walls on that floor need to be torn out and replaced. The plaster walls on the other levels are mold-proof, so they’d be OK. The building also needs all new electrical, plumbing as well as completely new kitchens and baths. It’s pushing it to get all of that done for $325K and bring it all up to code to get the new C of O, which means it’s not going to be very high quality.

There are some interesting original details. The triple mirror just inside the front door was incredible. It could be a great place, but I doubt it ever will be…

The one funny story from seeing this house was when the seller’s broker (Jean Adams of Prudential Douglas Elliman) was going down the dark, filthy staircase between the parlor and basement levels. She was a woman who carried herself with a fair amount of dignity but she was wearing flats walking down a staircase that was covered in rat droppings and god knows what else. She very calmly said “Wait a moment, I’ve got something in my shoe”. She didn’t have socks or stockings on, so that meant she had gotten what was probably rat feces in her shoe against her bare skin. Given what she had to endure to show that house, I had huge respect for her. Of course, she could have dressed differently… I for one always wore boots with steel soles and toes when I went through houses like that…

Pay 1/3rd of what you would have paid 2-3 years ago

Harlem townhouses that are wrecks and need major gut renovations have fallen about 65-70% in value since the peak in 2007. Even the ones in better condition have fallen substantially. Other real estate in Manhattan has fallen maybe 20%. I once had a friend tell me life is a lot like surfing - you need to watch waves and be prepared to get onto your next big wave and you need to do it before the wave gets too big. That analogy felt really apt as we sold our apartment at 15% off it’s peak value to purchase something that had fallen at least 65% from it’s peak value. It really felt like getting off one wave onto another that’s potentially much bigger.

Be prepared for volatility

But using the wave analogy a bit more… the Harlem townhouse market is still a market with drastic extremes. The fact that you can lose 2/3rds of the value in your home in 2 years will scare some people. There are a number of reasons for the volatility. The bottom line is that Harlem’s gentrification in the past 10+ years didn’t “stick”. Not enough got gone before the crash. The schools aren’t that great, the grocery stores are generally pretty bad, and there are still a fair number of empty lots and derelict buildings.

That’s why investing in Harlem today needs to be part of a long-term strategy. If you’re hoping to sell in a year or two - don’t do it. Harlem real estate could very well continue to go down in the next few years. Instead, look 10 or 15 years out at the next wave of investment/development and ask yourself which NY neighborhoods have the most upside potential. In Manhattan, Harlem is probably top of the list.

Signs of change - even now

If you’re not all that familiar with Harlem and it’s been years since you’ve been to Harlem try taking the ABCD trains to 125th Street and walking south on Frederick Douglass Boulevard (8th Avenue - the continuation of Central Park West). Years ago the place was pretty blighted, now the developers are calling it “SoHa” (South Harlem). Where once there was blight, now there are tons of brand spanking new buildings. Look closely at the buildings and you’ll see they’re quality building with decent design and above average construction. They’re a lot more like the new buildings you’d find on the Upper West Side than they are the drab new buildings you see in Washington Heights. At 124th you’ll see the new luxury Aloft Hotel being constructed. Around 120th go into Moca Lounge in the evening and see all the hip buppies. Around 119th go into Best Yet Market and see a grocery store that rivals downtown stores like Whole Foods and Gourmet Garage (it just opened a month ago and only had it’s official grand opening yesterday). There are great places to eat  all along that stretch - like Melba’s at 114th Street.  Yes, prices are down, but those new condos are still selling - even in this market. I genuinely think that type of development will spread to other parts of Harlem in the next upswing. If you’re patient enough to wait you can reap the benefits by buying now - at or near the bottom of the market (knock wood).

Pockets of long-time quality

There are certain parts of Harlem that have always had great townhouses and those neighborhoods are offering quality at a great price. Hamilton Heights / Sugar Hill (near the ABCD train at 145th) is one solid area. Strivers’ Row (138/139 between ACP and FDB) is another classic area that’s always been good. Mount Morris Historic District just south of 125 between 5th Avenue and ACP (6th Ave) is another solid neighborhood. And the blocks over by Morningside Park near Manhattan Avenue are great as well. Buying in an area with a reputation for stability is a pretty safe bet (long term). However, you really need to study Harlem to understand which blocks are solid and which aren’t since in some cases crossing an avenue can take you from one of the best blocks in Harlem to one of the worst.

Is the market going up or down?

Personally I think it’s leveled off. I don’t feel like it’s gone up or down much since about the middle of last year. Last July there were two sales in Sugar Hill that I saw as benchmark sales - 419 West 146th Street for $495K and 400 West 145th Street for $550K. When you looked at actual square footage both were at about $147/sq. ft. Both are in the historic district - with the one on 146 having the negative of a 12.5′ width, and the one on 145 having the negative of being on a busy street.

[The Department of Buildings has used two different ways to measure square footage over the years. As a result basement / garden levels are sometimes included and sometimes not. You need to determine the real square footage to determine the real cost per square foot.]

Doing the a 1/2 mile radius around those sales for the past 3 months we see prices haven’t changed all that much. The least expensive was 505 W 144 which sold for $122/sq ft. That’s one we bid on at one point and it’s outside the historic district on a “less than desirable” block. 400 W 145 sold for a 2nd time later in the year - this time for $650K - $100K more than it sold at auction for in July. 48 Hamilton PLACE sold for $450K ($143/sq. ft.) but it doesn’t have great location and I think it’s a fully occupied SRO. So, if anything I’d say prices have gone up slightly.

The higher end of the market is seeing similar stability. For almost a year now $300/sq. ft. will get you a habitable townhouse on a prime block needing significant renovation. In  the $400s/sq. ft. you’ll get a very nice fully renovated townhouse. And the exceptional townhouses will go for around the $500/sq. ft. mark.

Starting with a shell/wreck in a “decent” location (like ours), add about $20/sq. ft. for a prime block in a historic district or even a bit more the area in SoHa around Morningside Park & Manhattan Avenue. Or subtract about $20/sq. ft. for the worst locations. So the range for shells is just over $100/sq. ft. to about $150/sq. ft. on a prime block. It’s been that way for at least the better part of a year.

[If the townhouse is close to the FDB corridor and has the new R8 zoning with a commercial overlay, then it's worth significantly more given the development potential. 243 West 120 is a building that falls in that category.]

That said, in our experience very few owners price their townhouses anywhere close to where they’ll sell. Chances are you’ll get around $200K off the asking price. We got $270K off what the asking was at the time we started bidding (they lowered it $100K while we were bidding to attract other offers). Any owner who scoffs at an offer $250-300K below their asking probably won’t be selling their place any time soon.

How much do the renovations cost?

When looking at places don’t underestimate how much work has to be done. Even places that look half way decent can require $200-250K in renovations. In addition to the little stuff, most of the townhouses have original(ish) plumbing and electrical ($150K or so to replace). Most of them will have rotted floor joists near the bathrooms. Most of them will need all new kitchens and bathrooms ($200K to replace). Then there are things like repointing brick, replacing old, inefficient boilers, etc.

For an “average” wreck you’re probably looking at $500K in renovations. Our place is a complete shell with nothing left inside. We’ve budgeted $700K ($550K for construction + 10% overage contingency + $50K for architectural + $50K to cover the mortgage during construction) and that’s a very tight budget - $800K would be better, but we just can’t go that high. And god forbid you have problems with your contractor - then things can get VERY expensive.

Make sure the numbers work in the short term

Even though you may be buying as a long-term investment, be conservative and make sure the numbers work in the short term. Over-estimate on your renovation budget and timeline and under estimate your rental income. Get to know the rental market, figure out what your rental unit(s) will rent for, and then only assume that you’ll receive 70-75% of that since the market may go down or you’ll have vacancy between tenants.

If you’re in the market for a shell make sure that if push came to shove you can sell it when you get done if you have to without losing too much money. So if you buy at $125/sq. ft. and put $200 sq. ft. into it then you need to be able to sell it for $325/sq. ft. It’s really easy for a architect and contractor to give you a price of $800K to renovate your place, but you may find that the market only warrants spending $500-600K. Do all the numbers before you buy - some places just don’t make sense to buy. But if you really like the place put in a lower bid based on those numbers. Never be afraid of a low ball bid that makes sense when you crunch the numbers.

Pay attention to the certificate of no harassment

In the 1980s landlords started evicting tenants who were in rooms in townhouses so they could flip the building or have  units that were more profitable. Those rooming houses are called “SROs” in NY which stands for Single Room Occupancy. Since around 1985 it is illegal to convert an SRO unless everyone who’s lived there for the past three years signs a document saying that they were not harassed to leave. This protects NY’s poor who often can’t afford the rent of a full apartment. It’s not uncommon for landlords to pay $10,000-$15,000 to get someone to sign.

If you purchase a building that is considered an SRO - even an empty one or one that doesn’t seem to be an SRO, you may need to wait 3 years before you can apply for a certificate of no harassment. Then you’ll need to wait about 9 months to actually get the certificate, and then you’ll have a year of renovation. If you absolutely love the place and don’t mind waiting 5 years to live there, go right ahead, but otherwise always insist on seeing the certificate of harassment before you even start bidding on the property.

It’s amazing the things brokers will say when they don’t have a certificate of non-harassment. Sotheby’s claimed an SRO on Strivers’ Row was a 2 family. I’ve also heard “it will be delivered vacant” as a response (as if that changes anything), or “we’re in the process of getting it”. As much as you like the place, if they don’t have the certificate - move on…

Loans are available

Financing is a critical component of buying a townhouse and Wells Fargo seems to be the bank most eager to issue rehab mortgages on Harlem shells (they’re possibly the only bank doing those loans). Your interest rate will be a bit higher, you’ll have some extra expenses to cover their management of your construction, and there will be a lot of hoops to jump through - but it is possible to get a loan. We recommend speaking with Michael Stein (Michael.B.Stein@wellsfargo.com) if you’re in the market for a townhouse.

Just imagine - lots of space in Manhattan…

When it’s all said and done, if you can get the numbers to work for you, you’ll have a wonderful home with tons of space in Manhattan. Space is a pretty rare thing to have in NY. So all of the hassle really is worth it…

And on top of it all, in 30 years when you’ve paid off your mortgage you’ll still have rental income that will more than cover your housing costs. So you’ll live rent-free in Manhattan. Not a bad deal - but at this point it’s all about the long-term investment.

I genuinely believe that in 5 or 10 years Harlem will start going up again very quickly and dramatically and next time the gentrification will stick. If you’re well positioned on the wave you’ll have a great place to live, at an affordable price, with solid rental income, and tons of equity in your home. All in all, a very good deal…